The Truth About 315 Exosomes What You Need to Know

Author: Center for Science Popularization in Chinese Cosmetics. Reviewers: NA. Curator: NA. Production/Organizational Information: Shanghai Daily Chemical Industry Association.

The exposure of illegal injection phenomena related to exosomes during this year's March 15th gala has made the term 'exosomes' a focal point of public attention. Infections, allergies, illegal medical practices... behind these shocking terms lies a more fundamental question: Do we really understand what exosomes are? Are the plant-derived 'vesicles' the same as the exosomes exposed during the March 15th event?

This article aims to clarify basic concepts for consumers who are concerned about skincare and the safety of medical beauty from a scientific perspective.

01 Scientific Rebranding: Exosomes are a Nobel Prize-Level Discovery, Not a Marketing Gimmick.

The transformation of exosomal nanovesicles from being obscure to becoming a focal point in scientific research marks two key milestones:

In 1983, the team led by Rose M. Johnstone at McGill University in Canada first captured traces of exosomes in the serum of cultured sheep red blood cells. However, at that time, this discovery did not attract widespread attention. In 2013, scientists including Randy Schekman were awarded the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for revealing the mechanisms of extracellular vesicle transport. This propelled exosome research into the public eye.

In fact, almost all cells can produce exosomes, but their properties vary significantly depending on their source. The scientific community generally divides them into two categories: animal-derived exosome nanovesicles (referred to as animal exosomes) and plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles (referred to as plant vesicles).

Animal Exosomes and Plant Vesicles: Essentially Different.

Although animal exosomes and plant vesicles have similar names, there are essential differences in their origin, composition, stability, and methods of application, as shown in Figure 1 and Table 1.

Figure 1 Differences between exosomes and plant vesicles.

Table 1 Core Differences Between Animal Exosomes and Plant Vesicles.

Name Animal Exosomes Plant-Derived Vesicles Main Source Mammals, Humans Plants Particle Size Smaller (30–150 nm) Larger (50–200 nm) Composition Lipids Contains cholesterol Does not contain cholesterol, lipid components have plant specificity Proteins Rich in membrane fusion-related proteins (such as CD63) Fewer types/contents, contains plant-specific surface proteins Nucleic Acids Contains mRNA, miRNA, lncRNA, etc. Rich in plant-specific miRNA (with cross-border regulatory effects) Small Molecules None Rich in plant-derived active small molecules (such as flavonoids) Structure and Stability Relatively low membrane stability High membrane stability, strong environmental tolerance Safety Involves risks of immune rejection and pathogen transmission Good biocompatibility and safety.

It should be emphasized that exosomes derived from animals are explicitly prohibited for use in cosmetics in China, as outlined in the 'Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications,' due to their association with risks of immune rejection and pathogen transmission.

The March 15th gala exposed cases where this type of exosome was illegally used for injections—this goes beyond the scope of cosmetics and qualifies as illegal medical practice.

03 Plant Vesicles: How to Achieve Compliant Use?

For consumers, the most concerning questions are: Can plant-derived vesicles be used in skincare products? Do they have safety standards?

The answer is affirmative, and the path is clear.

International Level: INCI Name Certification.

Plant-derived vesicles can apply for an International Cosmetic Ingredient Name (INCI name). Currently, the INCI directory of the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) in the United States has included 44 plant-related ingredients, covering common plants such as grapes, apples, ginseng, and reishi mushrooms.

Table 2: Some Plant-based Vesicle Ingredients in the US INCI Directory.

Serial Number INCI Name Chinese Name 1 Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Cell Extracellular Vesicles Grape Fruit Cell Extracellular Vesicles 2 Dendrobium Officinale Extracellular Vesicles Dendrobium Cell Extracellular Vesicles 3 Eryngium Maritimum Callus Extracellular Vesicles Seashore Eryngo Callus Extracellular Vesicles 4 Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Extracellular Vesicles Alpine Edelweiss Callus Extracellular Vesicles 5 Malus Domestica (Apple) Fruit Cell Extracellular Vesicles Apple Fruit Cell Extracellular Vesicles 6 Panax Ginseng Adventitious Root Extracellular Vesicles Ginseng Adventitious Root Extracellular Vesicles 7 Panax Ginseng Callus Extracellular Vesicles Ginseng Callus Extracellular Vesicles 8 Rosa Rugosa Callus Extracellular Vesicles Rose Callus Extracellular Vesicles.

At the domestic level: standards take precedence, compliance and filing.

In the country, plant-derived vesicles primarily achieve compliant applications through the following pathways:

You can file for registration using the existing INCI names. Specifically, vesicles derived from grapes are presented in the ingredient list as 'Grape Fruit Extract'; vesicles derived from microorganisms are listed as 'XXX Fermentation Product Filtrate.' These are all mature and compliant ingredients in the national cosmetics ingredient directory.

Industry standards have been successively released. The group standards such as 'General Requirements for Plant-Derived Vesicle Cosmetics Raw Materials' and 'Guidelines for Plant Nanovesicle Production Technology' have been officially introduced, filling the technical gap in the field of cosmetic raw materials derived from plants and providing a reference basis for production and quality control.

This means that plant-derived vesicles are not merely 'concept additions,' but rather scientific components that adhere to established standards and regulations.

04 A table to understand the essential differences clearly.

To make it easier for consumers to distinguish, we will compare the exposed misconduct in exosome aesthetic medicine, revealed on March 15th, with compliant plant-derived vesicles.

Table 3 Comparison of Core Ingredients in Exosome Aesthetic Products and Plant-Derived Vesicle Cosmetics.

Comparison Dimensions Exosome Aesthetic Products Plant-derived Vesicle Cosmetics Source Human or animal cells Natural plants Nature of the substance Exosomes Plant-derived vesicles Regulatory Status No certification, counterfeit certification, or unregistered products Registered with cosmetic product number, legally marketed Application Method Injection (even intravenous injection) Applied to the skin surface Claims of Effectiveness Often falsely claim to treat diseases Limited to skincare within the cosmetics category Safety Record Has led to infections, severe allergies Compliant ingredients listed in the national raw material directory.

The core difference can be summarized as follows: the 315 incident pertains to illegal medical activities characterized by 'illegal sources, illegal actions, and illegal operations'; whereas compliant plant-based vesicle applications represent legal cosmetic consumption that is marked by 'legal identity, legal ingredients, and legal claims.'

05 How can consumers scientifically distinguish?

In the face of the diverse and complex advertising in the market, consumers can focus on the following points to make rational judgments:

First, look at the ingredient list. Plant-derived vesicles will be presented in the ingredient list as 'XX extract' and will not be directly labeled as 'exosomes.'

Secondly, consider the usage method. There is an essential difference between topical skincare products and injectable products. Any 'exosome' product that claims to be used through injection or micro-needling should be approached with caution regarding its qualifications as a medical device or pharmaceutical.

Thirdly, consider the efficacy claims. According to the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics, cosmetics cannot claim to treat diseases. If a product claims to 'replace injections' or 'reverse aging,' it may be in violation of regulations.

Fourth, pay attention to the progress of standards. The release of industry standards related to plant vesicles indicates that the industry is moving towards regulation. Consumers should monitor whether brands comply with these standards.

Conclusion.

The exposure of 315 serves as a mirror, reflecting some of the chaotic aspects of the medical aesthetics industry, and it reminds us that scientific knowledge is the best protection.

Exosomes used for injection — this is illegal medical practice; plant-derived vesicles used for topical skincare — this is compliant cosmetics. Although the two may seem related, their natures are fundamentally different.

When we clarify these fundamental concepts, we can make more rational choices amid the complex market information. The healthy development of the industry also requires the joint efforts of consumers, practitioners, and regulators—using scientifically sound methods to create products that instill confidence.

Reference materials:

Pan B T, Johnstone R M. Fate of the transferrin receptor during the maturation of sheep reticulocytes in vitro: selective externalization of the receptor. Cell, 1983, 33(3): 967-978.

Liu H, Dong T, Dong C, et al. Plant-derived exosome-like nanovesicles: a novel therapeutic perspective for skin diseases. Journal of Nanobiotechnology, 2025, 23(1): 1-29.

Shanghai Daily Chemical Industry Association. General Requirements for Plant-Derived Vesicle Cosmetic Raw Materials: T/SHRH 075-2025 [S/OL]. (2025-08-31).

China Anti-Aging Promotion Association. Guidelines for the Production Technology of Plant Nano Vesicles: T/ZGKSL 023—2025[S/OL]. (2025-08-27).

(This article is based on publicly available research literature and industry standards, aiming to educate the public and does not constitute any brand recommendations or purchasing advice.)